Making a Prototype for a Chandelier
Side View of the Prototype
I built a chandelier about a year ago and it’s been hanging over my dining room table ever since. It’s a great piece and everyone comments on it. I’ve wanted to iterate the design and try out some new elements, namely curves. So today I started with a prototype for the new design.
End Post with Template
The prototype is a 1/2 scale model that started from taking dimensions off the original template. The original was built on my old workbench and I drew all the dimensions right onto that top. So, I pulled that top back out from storage and transcribed the major dimensions to my new template. I scaled the whole thing down by about 75% because I want it to fit an 8′ dining room table (mine is 10′ and it works well there). And of course, the template is 1/2 scale.
Template drawn on MDF
After marking the dimensions, I drove nails to bend the pieces. (The pieces are from a piece of scrap cherry about 3′ long and 3″ wide). I bent the 5 slats and traced the angle where they meet the post. I also marked the joinery (holes for posts and wire). I then rough cut the posts into rectangular form and went about creating the 5 slots for the slats. I tilted the tablesaw to the correct angle, ran the post, tilted for the next one and so on (5 times).
Template showing flared end
I then pulled out my french curve and started working on the shape for the end post. I made a mirror image and cut the end posts into a sort of fluted curve. I drilled a hole for the wire to pass through both posts. The center post is a similar shape, but much smaller in height.
Finally I shaped the 5 slats. I wanted them to mimic the end post’s profile, so they grow in width from bottom to top. I also put a very subtle curve along the length of each slat, narrowing about 1/4″ at the center (on each side). I also wanted the end profile (from the side) to flare out in the same shape as the post. To do this I simply had to find what length to crosscut each slat. Finally I strung a piece of wire through the 2 bottom slats and end posts and tied them off (that’s what holds the whole thing together).
I’m very happy with the prototype. I will live with it for a week or more and see how it’s working for me. I also want to get as much critique as I can on this piece, so please comment away! I’d love to hear what you like, don’t like and how you’d change it. I look forward to building the full version soon.
Note: It’s not clear from the description and pics where the actual lights are (watch the video for more information!). See the pic below of the existing chandelier to get the full concept for how it looks with hanging lamps.
 View from the End |
 Another view of the End |
 A view of the flared end |
 Prototype from below, at the end |
Original Chandelier
 Center Post |
 Top of Center Post |
 Bottom of Center Post |
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I think this is a great design. I like how you matched the curves as you made the pieces thinner towards the botton and on the ends. Great video, cool chandelier, and nice house! Can’t wait to see more.
Very beautiful piece, Mike. I think it scales beautifully. Did you get to use the new saw making it?
My only suggestion would be to use wedges in the mortices to eliminate the wire. You’d still need wire to hang the sides from though, so I’m not sure that would be worth it.
Hey Morton, nice work. The video quality is great too.
My only complaint…your shop is way too clean dude!
Ian
I think that is a beautiful light.
It’s a great example of how something made out of wood can look completely contemporary.
Very, very nice design and prototype. I like the changes you made from the original and incorporating the curve into the slats in both length and width. I do not know much about metal leaf, but I could really see the end-posts and center post in a rustic copper patina.
Keep up the great work and design.
Hi Morton
Thank you for sharing – great post.
Question: Is it possible to see a close up of the center post? I wanted to see how you solved keeping all the blades together at the center point? Also you only have a single wire strand – Any issues with structural strength? Did you use glue in the center as well or is everything held by the single wire?
As a suggestion – you have probable thought of this before and discounted it but I thought I would mention it – I see you cut a channel for the electric wire down the columns, have you though about enclosing them- i.e. create another post and glue it to the existing one with the channel “cable” running between. As an added benefit this would close up the “joinery gaps” where you inserted the posts and create a seamless “blade” effect.
James — thanks for the comments. I’ve added 3 new photos to the blog entry that show closeups of the center post. The center post is inserted into the through-mortise in the center of the 5 slats and then twisted 90 degrees to hold the slats in place. I hope the pictures help show how that works. The square cutouts in the center post wrap above/below the 5 slats to hold them in place (once twisted).
There are no problems with strength using just a single strand across. What happens is that the chandelier is hung from the top of the two outer posts up to a single point, thus creating a triangle that holds everything in place. So – each end post has a wire rope going out the top to a single point above (to support the whole thing) and then the two posts are connected, thus a triangle.
I love the idea of running the wire through the end posts rather than outside. I had thought of that, but also wanted to keep the end posts fairly thin; I could probably accomplish both. However, the gaps would still be there because I need to insert the end post through the mortises in the slats and then move it forward slightly to insert each slat into it’s corresponding slot in the end post. I think the pictures should show that better than I can type.
Wow — all in all, a little hard to explain how it works in text. I hope the pictures help decipher how it’s all held together!