Toy Chest: Creating the Curved K

I first want to create the curved K and the entire front of the chest, as I will then use that as the final dimensions for the rest of the case.

I had my piece picked out for the curved legs of the K to re-saw and book-match.  I laid the template, printed over 5 pieces of paper from Google Sketchup, over the piece and chalked the outline.  A rough-cut oversize on the bandsaw and joint + edge, ready to re-saw.  My re-saw didn’t go that well, which doesn’t matter because I have plenty of material to work with.  The real problem was exposing too much sap wood in the middle of the board, which really didn’t look good.

So, I decided to re-saw just the front half to avoid all sap wood.  I first cut the curved legs of the K more exactly on the bandsaw and spindle sander.  Then I performed the re-saw on the tablesaw: each piece is about 1/4″ thick.  I was able to avoid all sap wood and it looks great.

Now that I’m dealing with a little bit thinner pieces for the curved section, I want more support at the stile (leg) of the K.  So rather than just butt them agains the leg, I inset them slightly.  I cut out a corner of the stile about 1/4″ deep to provide that support.

So – the front K is all done: the straight leg (stile) and curved sections (1/4″ thick).  On to the rest of the frame and panel to finish the front.

3 Responses to “Toy Chest: Creating the Curved K”
  1. Chris Adkins says:

    Looking great Morton, can’t wait to see the final results. I love the bookmatching.

  2. mike says:

    Morton – How did you cut those final pieces in half on the table saw? Particularly since they’re curved and the material was only 1/2″.

    mike

  3. Morton says:

    Very carefully? :) I did resaw them in half on the tablesaw, to just over 1/4″ thick. I cut them curved-side down and angled it through the blade as I went, if you can picture that – such that at the blade the piece was always resting solidly on the tabletop. The curve is just over 3″ wide in some places so the blade didn’t quite make it all the way through – though at most points it did. I finished the parts it didn’t cut with a japanese hand saw.

    Really, a pretty straightforward procedure. Just need to be safe with feather boards, push sticks and a riving knife.

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